Essaouira, Morocco: The Laid-Back Coastal Town You’ll Want to Linger In
After days of zigzagging through Morocco’s buzzing cities and dramatic landscapes, Essaouira was the pause I didn’t know I needed. I arrived on the Atlantic coast in the middle of winter, expecting wind and quiet—and that’s exactly what I got. But also: golden sunsets over ramparts, fresh seafood eaten with salty fingers, and medina strolls that didn’t feel like a sport. I ended up staying five days, doing very little by design, and loving every minute of it.
Whether you’re looking to unwind after a packed itinerary or just craving sea air and slower rhythms, Essaouira is one of those places where time stretches and the pressure to see everything fades away.
About Essaouira
Essaouira, formerly known as Mogador, is a laid-back port town on Morocco’s Atlantic coast. Known for its fortified medina (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), whitewashed buildings with blue shutters, and steady coastal breeze, it’s long been a magnet for creatives, wanderers, and windsurfers alike.
Unlike other Moroccan cities, Essaouira is calmer, cooler (in every sense), and compact enough to explore without a plan. The pace is slow, the people are friendly, and the sea is never far. With its blend of Moroccan, Berber, Portuguese, and French influences, the town has a distinct atmosphere that makes it easy to fall into a rhythm of aimless wandering—and stay longer than expected.
How to Get to Essaouira
From Marrakesh
Essaouira is about a 2.5–3 hour drive from Marrakesh, making it a popular escape from the chaos of the city. If you don’t have a rental car, the easiest option is to take a CTM or Supratours bus—both are reliable, comfortable, and affordable.
From Casablanca
Coming from Casablanca? It’s a longer journey—around 6 hours by bus, or 4–5 hours by car. There are no direct trains, so if you’re relying on public transport, a bus is your best bet. Alternatively, consider breaking up the trip with a stop in Marrakesh.
From Agadir
If you’re traveling up the coast, the drive from Agadir takes around 3.5 hours. There are fewer direct buses, but the road is scenic, passing through small villages and Argan tree country (yes, you might see goats in the trees).
Things to Do in Essaouira
Wander the Medina
Essaouira’s medina was one of my favorite places in Morocco—compact, bright, and refreshingly low-pressure compared to Marrakesh or Fez. You can easily spend hours getting lost in its white-and-blue alleyways, but here are a few spots that really stood out to me:
Skala de la Ville: This coastal rampart offers some of the best ocean views in town. Lined with 18th-century cannons and crashing waves below, it’s atmospheric and a perfect intro to the medina’s unique blend of seaside and history.
Rue Mohammed Zerktouni: This is the medina’s main thoroughfare and a great place to start. It’s lined with artisan shops selling thuya wood crafts, handwoven textiles, and local art. Even if you’re not shopping, it’s fun to people-watch and soak in the vibe.
The Spice and Oil Souks: Look for small shops selling argan oil (often produced just outside of town), ras el hanout spice blends, and herbal remedies. I found some friendly, no-pressure vendors near Bab Doukkala and Place Moulay Hassan.
Caravan Serai Courtyards: Keep an eye out for hidden riads and caravanserais—old merchants’ inns—many of which are now home to art galleries or peaceful cafés. Pushing open one of those heavy wooden doors often leads to a calm, tile-covered oasis.
Local Landmarks:
- Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah Museum (inside a former riad) offers a small but interesting collection of local art and history.
- Chaim Pinto Synagogue, tucked into the mellah section of the medina, is worth a visit if you’re curious about Essaouira’s Jewish heritage.
Brotherhood Coffee Shop and Pâtisserie Driss are two institutions. The first is tucked away in a quiet street, and the second has been serving pastries since the 1920s—try the almond croissant.
Stroll Along the Beach
Even in winter, the beach is worth a visit. While it was too chilly to swim, I took daily walks along the shore, watched locals play soccer in the sand, and soaked in the sea breeze. Sunset is especially beautiful here.
The Mellah (Jewish Quarter)
A short walk from the main streets of the medina, this historic area offers a quieter, more local feel. Look for the recently restored synagogue (Bayt Dakira) that doubles as a museum and cultural center telling the story of Essaouira’s once-thriving Jewish community.
Visit the Port
The fishing port is gritty, loud, and full of life. You can watch fishermen haul in the day’s catch or grab lunch at one of the simple seafood stalls nearby. If you’re into photography, the blue boats and seagull-filled sky make for great shots.
Catch Some Live Music
Essaouira has a strong musical soul, especially with its Gnawa heritage. If you’re lucky, you might stumble on live performances in the medina or small bars and cafés. Keep an ear out—music tends to find you here.
Take a Day Trip (or Half-Day Trip)
There are a few interesting options nearby if you’re feeling adventurous. Some travelers opt for camel or horseback rides along the dunes just outside town. Others visit argan oil cooperatives or go on short quad-biking tours in the surrounding countryside.
Where to Eat in Essaouira
- Umia – A small, creative restaurant near Skala serving Mediterranean-fusion dishes with a Moroccan twist.
- Triskala – Funky decor and an all-vegetarian menu that changes daily. Cozy and laid-back.
- Chez Sam – Right by the port, this seafood institution is a little pricier but worth it for the setting and the catch-of-the-day.
- Pâtisserie Driss – A classic for good coffee and pastries in a tiled courtyard.
- La Table by Madada – A more upscale spot with beautifully presented Moroccan classics.
Where to Stay in Essaouira (Top Picks)
Essaouira has no shortage of charming riads and boutique stays, many tucked within the medina or offering breezy views over the ocean. I really enjoyed the slower pace here, and where you stay can definitely enhance that feeling.
- Salut Maroc! – This vibrant riad is right by the medina walls and has serious design flair. Each room is wildly colorful with local art and tilework, and the rooftop views over the sea and port are hard to beat. It’s stylish without trying too hard.
- Riad Baladin – A calm, airy retreat in the heart of the medina. The minimalist whitewashed interiors are a refreshing contrast to the busy souks, and the rooftop lounge is perfect for catching sunsets. It feels more like a wellness escape than a typical riad stay.
- Villa Maroc – One of the older boutique hotels in town, and it has real charm. It’s made up of connected houses with nooks and terraces, and some rooms have beautiful ocean views. The atmosphere is warm and intimate—great if you’re after something classic and cozy.
Final Thoughts
Essaouira was the kind of place I didn’t know I needed until I got there. It doesn’t hit you with drama or spectacle—what it offers is calm. You can wander the medina without getting lost or hassled, breathe in the ocean air, and reset. Whether you’re here for a weekend or a week, it’s a welcome change of pace in a country that’s often full-on. If you have the time, stay longer than a night. Essaouira deserves it.
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