Visiting Ait Ben Haddou: Your Ultimate Travel Guide
Tucked between the High Atlas Mountains and the edge of the desert, Ait Ben Haddou is one of those places that instantly transports you.
I stopped there as part of a longer journey through southern Morocco and was struck by how surreal the whole setting felt—crumbling kasbahs glowing in the late afternoon sun, donkeys trudging across the dry riverbed, and barely a sound but the wind rustling through the clay walls.
It’s no wonder this place has been used as a backdrop in so many films. While you don’t need much time to see it, Ait Ben Haddou is definitely worth a stop if you’re traveling between Marrakesh and the Sahara.
About Ait Ben Haddou
Ait Ben Haddou is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best-preserved ksars (fortified villages) along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh. The architecture—made entirely of earth and straw—blends seamlessly into the surrounding landscape, especially when the sun hits the ochre walls at golden hour. It’s a striking sight, whether you’re climbing to the top for panoramic views or wandering the narrow alleys.
Despite its fame, it’s still a quiet place, especially in the early morning or late afternoon once the tour buses leave. If you’re a film buff, you’ll probably recognize it from productions like Gladiator, Game of Thrones, and The Mummy.
How to Get There
Getting to Ait Ben Haddou takes a bit of planning, especially since public transportation to the village has stopped operating since the pandemic.
I took a bus from Marrakesh and based myself in Ouarzazate, which is about 30 km away. From there, it was easy enough to hire a taxi through my guesthouse (he waited for me there as getting a cab back is not guaranteed, especially during the low season).
If you’re coming from Marrakesh by car, it’s a long but scenic drive over the High Atlas via the Tizi n’Tichka Pass—around four to five hours.
Some people visit Ait Ben Haddou as a day trip from Marrakesh, but I’m not sure it’s worth the long drive.
Tip: Ait Ben Haddou is located on a hill, so once you arrive, be prepared for a short uphill walk along narrow paths. The village itself is pedestrian-only, making the walk part of the experience!
Where to Stay in Ait Ben Haddou
I based myself in nearby Ouarzazate, which gave me the flexibility to explore not just Ait Ben Haddou but also other nearby sites like the Atlas Film Studios and Fint Oasis. It’s about a 30-minute drive away and has more accommodation and food options.
If you’re on a tighter schedule and heading either to the Sahara or back to Marrakesh, you can definitely stay closer. One solid pick is Bagdad Café. Right near the ksar, this guesthouse is welcoming and convenient for sunrise or sunset visits. Rooms are simple but comfortable, and they serve a good dinner if you want to avoid heading back out after dark.
If you’re looking for atmosphere and don’t mind being a bit outside the action, staying in a traditional mudbrick guesthouse overlooking the ksar can be a memorable experience too—some offer terraces with unbeatable views. Kasbah Tebi and Kasbah El Hajja are both great picks.
Things to Do and What Not to Miss in Ait Ben Haddou
The main attraction is, of course, the UNESCO-listed ksar (fortified village), and wandering through its maze of earthen alleys feels like stepping back in time. I recommend heading up early in the morning or late in the afternoon—sunrise and sunset light make the mudbrick walls glow, and it’s also when the village is at its quietest.
Here’s what not to miss:
- Climb to the top of the ksar: The views over the Ounila Valley and surrounding desert are well worth the dusty uphill walk.
- Explore the alleys: Take your time weaving through the passageways. You’ll spot crumbling kasbahs, small shops, and rooftops with panoramic views.
- Keep an eye out for filming locations: Ait Ben Haddou has starred in dozens of films and series, from Gladiator to Game of Thrones. Some locals will point out where scenes were shot.
- Cross the traditional bridge: Instead of using the modern bridge, try crossing the river using the sandbag stepping stones—it adds a bit of fun (and a better photo op).
- Don’t miss golden hour: The light around sunset is truly magical. I found the best vantage point on a rooftop terrace just across the river—order some mint tea and soak it all in.
A visit doesn’t take long—an hour or two is usually enough—but the atmosphere makes it tempting to linger longer. Staying overnight is definitely worth it if you have time.
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